\t\tZambia and ZimbabweI have the choice of three border posts between Zambia and Zimbabwe: Chirundu, Siavonga (Kariba) and Livingstone (Victoria Falls). I choose to cross the border at Livingstone in my cross border car rental, so I can judge for myself whether Victoria Falls are better viewed from the Zambian or the Zimbabwean side.MazabukuAs I head south out of Lusaka on the main T2, about 5 km outside the city, I stop at a supermarket to refuel. A little while later, after going through the town of Kafue, I cross over the Kafue Gorge bridge and keep a look out for the turning to Livingstone, which is not that clearly signposted. I spot it and turn left. Less than an hour later, I find myself driving through fields of sugarcane, as I approach Mazabuku. The town is tree-lined and seems well developed with plenty of shops and garages and even some eateries. I stop briefly to buy some supplies and then continue my journey south along a reasonably good tar road. A couple of hours later I arrive in Choma and pop into the Museum, which has some fascinating displays on Tonga culture and a craft centre. Then, I head north to the Nkanga River Conservation area, where I am going to be spending the night at one of the campsites. The area is a bird-watchers paradise with over 400 different species of birdlife - I fall asleep to the soft hoot of owls in the trees outside.LivingstoneThe next morning, after a couple of hours’ drive, I arrive in Livingstone, after passing through the towns of Kalomo and Zimba. The main street of the town is lined with Victorian tin-roofed houses with wooden verandas that take me back in time. On the road to Victoria Falls, I stop at a thatched-covered gas station to fill up and check oil and water, before crossing into Zimbabwe. I drive over what must be one of the most spectacular border crossings in the world: the 111 meter bridge viaduct that spans the Zambezi.Victoria FallsAs water thunders to my left, I understand why the Kokolo tribe called Victoria Falls “Mosi-oa-Tunya” (the smoke that thunders). A World Heritage Site, the Victoria Falls are one of the seven natural wonders of the world and twice as high and one and a half times as wide as the Niagara Falls. People are bungee jumping from the middle of the bridge (crazy!). Vic Falls is known as the adrenalin capital with an amazing choice of crazy adventure sports to try out, from microlighting to gorge swinging. I prefer my adventures from behind the wheel of my 4x4 hire!When I arrive on the Zimbawean side, I find the view to be even more spectacular. I can see three times more of the Victoria falls from this side than from Zambia. Unfortunately I don’t have time to walk along some of the walkways and get soaked with spray (like other tourists I see). I need to reach Hwange National Park before nightfall.Hwange National ParkTravelling along a tarred road, the countryside is green and beautiful. About two hours after leaving Victoria Falls, I arrive in Hwange, the largest National Park in Zimbabwe, covering over 14 000 square kilometers. Driving through the Park I am grateful for my 4x4: the potholes on some of the roads seem to have potholes of their own! I arrive at a camp and after eating around the fire, climb into my roof tent to sleep. A while later, I hear a noise and, peeking out of my tent, see a hyena standing just 30 metres away. Am I glad to be on top of the 4x4, hired in South Africa! The next day I visit some waterholes and am lucky enough to see a massive elephant having a shower. I don’t see any of the cat family but do get to see lots of antelope and, curiously, thousands of butterflies.I had been planning to drive from Hwange to Kariba, but fellow travellers I meet tell me that the dirt road is very poor condition and that it's best to travel there on the Zambian side. So, I return to Victoria Falls, where I treat myself to a night in a luxury hotel. I am going to have a long day tomorrow. I leave as dawn is breaking and cross over into Zambia as soon as the border post opens up. It takes me over six hours driving along a potholed tar road to reach Kariba. The next morning, I cross over into Zimbabwe again through the Chirundu one-stop border post, one of Southern Africa's busiest inland border crossings. It takes a while, as I am in the same queue as a whole lot of truckers waiting to navigate the two countries' cross-border immigration and customs. Eventually I am through and drive up the hill past the Mana Pools entrance gate to Marongara, Mana Pools' headquarters where I get my permits.Mana PoolsThen I drive back down the hill through the park gates and am in Mana Pools, Zimbabwe's second World Heritage Site, on the southern bank of the Zambezi River. It takes me two hours to get to the campsite. After settling in, I go for an unguided walk along the old river terraces and see antelope and elephants in the distance - it's like walking in a woodland park. At Mana Pools there are no fences to separate humans and animals, just the sounds of the wilderness all around: monkeys calling to each other, hippos grunting and elephants trumpeting. I feel a sense of tranquility and peace that is only highlighted by the surreal light filtering through the trees. After two days of relaxation and immersion in nature, I leave for Lake Kariba, just 100 km away.Lake KaribaLake Kariba is a manmade lake that was constructed in the 1950s when the Kariba Dam was built along the Zambezi River. The Tonga people, who were displaced by the Dam, believe that the Nyaminyami god will take revenge on man’s disruption of nature. But I see no sign of that – just a lake that is teeming with crocodiles and hippos. It is definitely not the place for a swim but wonderful for viewing wildlife! Before booking in at my accommodation, I take a 2-hour drive around the lake and see a multitude of wildlife: elephants, baboons, zebra, waterbuck, impala and even a tortoise. That night I sleep on board a houseboat from where I am able to experience a different view of the wildlife, watching as crocodiles slip from the banks into the river, hippos wallow in the mud and fish eagles perch on half-submerged tree trunks.The next morning I leave Kariba for Mozambique. I had originally intended crossing from Zimbabwe into Mozambique at the Forbees-Machipanda border post just outside Mutare, but because of fuel shortages, prefer not to travel further than is necessary in Zimbabwe. I set off from Kariba to Makuti, where I turn left towards Chirundu and then right onto the road to Kanyemba. The road is not great but my 4x4 hire is able to cope with the potholes and a couple of hours later I reach the border crossing of Kanyemba.
By: Alex Jochheiem
